On my plane from Heathrow to Osaka I watched Lost in Translation, it scared the shit out of me. Having spent the previous six months telling anyone who’d listen how much I was looking forward to moving to Japan I was faced with the sudden realisation that I was in fact, moving to Japan. I saw Bill Murray’s character, Bob Harris, struggle to come to terms with the unique culture he was faced with upon arrival in Tokyo; the size of the city, the number of people, the weird technological advances and the idiosyncrasies of the cities inhabitants. After a little over a week spent living in Osaka, it is another of the great Japanese clichés that has struck me most. An aspect of Japanese culture that marks the country apart from all other modern countries I can think of – the impeccable manners of the Japanese people.
Of course it is an almost universally accepted fact that the Japanese are in general, helpful and polite, but I hadn’t counted on just how helpful and polite they would be. Perhaps this comes down to having spent the past 26 years of my life living in the UK, a nation that ostensibly prides itself on service without a smile. The contrasts are universal. Take the ‘convenience store experience’ for example.
In general the convenience store workers of Britain give the impression that they would rather be just about anywhere else. The interviews must be a doddle, if you can come across as even slightly enthusiastic about a career selling fags and booze you surely stand an excellent chance of employment. The trouble is, no-one really wants to work in these places. In general, the average British customer doesn’t tend to have a problem with this attitude though; we accept that jobs such as working in a convenience store, or flipping burgers at McDonalds, are menial jobs – beneath those who frequent such establishments. And thus an unwritten contract has emerged between customer and worker that makes it acceptable for workers to be morose and unhelpful, while in return customers can feel no remorse in behaving like spoilt children, everyone’s happy, right?
Much of this decline in customer service follows the disappearance of the independently owned ‘corner shop’ and the emergence of the scaled-down supermarket. Having devastated countless local businesses, unable to keep up in the age of rock-bottom prices and loss-leader policies, Tesco et al have moved into the very high-streets they destroyed, installing mini versions of themselves in one last effort to rob town centres of any remaining diversity they might have. Where once we could rely on a friendly face and a smile when picking up the paper or buying a loaf of bread, we are now faced with a drone army of supermarket workers, destined to disappoint in an era of short-term contracts, low wages, and virtually no employment rights. Indeed, in this era of mini supermarket style convenience store, workers have almost nothing to gain by providing good customer service.
If bad service at convenience stores really is the result of ownership falling into fewer hands, or the demise of independently owned corner shops why then is it that the ‘convenience store experience’ in Japan is so different? Let’s start with the important points about the Japanese convenience store, or ‘conveenie’ as they are more widely known. They are brilliant.
Located on virtually every corner of every street in major Japanese cities they have everything you could ask of such a store... and more. Along with the usual selection of crisps, chocolates and soft drinks, they sell a dizzying assortment of hot and cold snacks ranging from traditional savoury rice balls wrapped in seaweed, to fried chicken and cheese burgers. The hot selection is the real highlight. Korokke – a breaded potato and pork snack – is a particular favourite. It’s not just the food that impresses though, it’s the small additions that set the Japanese ‘conveenie’ apart from the British ‘mini-supermarket’. Virtually every ‘conveenie’ for example has a toilet which means that rather than following in the British tradition of pissing down a back ally, late night revellers can instead relieve themselves in comfort before picking up a beer for the road.
Though unquestionably impressive in their material offerings, the most impressive aspect of the ‘Convenience store experience’ in Japan is without doubt the staff. The positive attitude of those on the payroll of the Seven Elevens, Family Marts, Lawson’s, and similar stores throughout Japan is infectious. Upon entering any one of these stores you will be greeted without fail with a beaming smile and a cry of “irashaimase” – welcome. It should be noted here that my Japanese speaking ability is limited to say the least so the majority of what is said to me in the process of a transaction is meaningless. Perhaps though it is better this way, for all I know they could be ridiculing my dress sense or insulting my family, the fact it is said with a smile makes the content almost meaningless, however.
Maybe I am being a little too generous here though, perhaps the Japanese attitude to customer service is normal and it is the British attitude that is abnormal. I think this does Japan, as a nation, a great disservice, however. While modern countries around the world have lost all sense of community in an ever increasing transition towards universal selfishness, Japan, it seems, has stayed true to its traditions of mutual respect and good manners. I have only been here for a little over a week so my opinions will doubtless change over time, for now though it is not the climate, nor the technology, or any other of the major differences that mark Japan apart from Britain that make me so positive about living in here in the future. It is instead the simple good manners of the lowly convenience store workers of Osaka and beyond.
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