Fake Beer?!

Following in the success of imported beers such as Mexico’s Corona, the Japanese beer Asahi has become increasingly popular in the UK. In the same way you no longer have to go to an Italian restaurant to drink a Peroni, you no longer have to go to Yo! Sushi to get your hands on an Asahi. Having enjoyed this light beer on the few occasions I’ve tried it, I was looking forward to sampling what else the Japanese beer market could offer me now that I live here. One thing I wasn’t expecting was the popularity not of Asahi but of so called ‘fake beers’. “Fake beer”?! I hear you say. Yes, fake beer does exist here in Japan, indeed, it flourishes.

Upon greater research it becomes clear that there are in fact three categories of ‘beer’ in Japan, each owing its existence to specific tax clasifications. Like most things in Japan these laws are beautifully illogical.

Regular beer – the Asahi’s of this world – must contain at least 67% malt and are subsequently taxed at the highest rate

Happoshu (literally meaning ‘Sparkling Spirits’) must contain less than 25% malt. These are taxed at a slightly lower rate

And finally there are the ‘Third Category’ beers, containing no malt at all. Exactly what is used in the brewing process instead of malt is changeable, but common substitutes include corn, peas, and soy. Needless to say these beers attract a far lower tax rate and a greatly reduced price for consumers.

Initially I wasn't put off by the concept of ‘fake beer’, in fact I was curious to try as many of these peculiar concoctions as possible (much to the disgust of my girlfriend’s Japanese father). Unfortunately as expected fake beer tastes a lot like you might expect fake beer to taste; shitty. A bit like beer but not quite the same. It’s a rare thing to find anyone praising cheap English lager, the Fosters, Carlings and Carlsbergs of this world, but you’d struggle to find anyone in Japan who wouldn’t give up a Suntory ‘Rich Malt’ in return for its British equivalent.

Just as British supermarkets continue to sell Fosters by the shipload day after day though, fake beer continues to be hugely popular here in Japan, as is often the case, it is not quality that is dictating consumer choice, but price. Given that the average can of third category beer is up to a third cheaper than a regular can this is hardly surprising. Despite its questionable taste and renowned ability to cause disproportionately vicious hangovers, it’s hard to argue with a saving of more than 30%.

The future looks disappointingly predictable. The big four Japanese breweries expect demand to continue growing, indeed a report in Japan Today stated that all four were expecting double digit sales growth for Third Category Beers. It would appear then that as a new inhabitant of Japan I have little choice regarding my future drinking habits. Either get a decent job or acquire a taste for fake beer.