Botan Nabe

Although still a relatively new arrival in Japan I’m in the privileged position of living with my Japanese girlfriend, as a result I get to try things that other new arrivals may not get the chance to do. A good example of this was a recent trip into the mountains organised by my girlfriend’s grandmother to experience Botan Nabe.

Botan Nabe, though rare in the more populous regions of Japan, is a well-known dish throughout the mountain regions that surround Osaka and Kyoto. In its simplest terms Botan Nabe can be described as a soup or stew comprising delicious wild boar along with mountain vegetables. The meat itself – dark in colour and rich in flavour – is cut thinly, in much the same way as ham, before being arranged on a plate in the shape of the petals of the peony flower, known in Japan as the Botan flower, hence the name Botan Nabe (Nabe meaning pot).

Though more and more places now offer the dish, particularly within Kansai, like the majority of Japanese cuisine there is a long tradition attached to the dish and the best examples are to be found at the places that have been producing it the longest. One such establishment is Iwaya (link in Japanese) located on the outskirts of Hyogo in an area called Tamba-Sasayama. This family run business has been producing Botan Nabe to great acclaim for more than 40 years, demonstrating that a combination of home grown, award winning rice and vegetables, together with excellent quality boar, can lead to continued success.

The restaurant is a thatched wooden structure that acts as a portal to a bygone era. With room to hold about 50 people, reservations are essential even on a weekday afternoon. The ‘tables’ comprise a small coal fire surrounded with cushions, with a huge steel pot full of hot soup suspended from the ceiling hanging over the fire. Each table is provided with an immaculately presented plate of meat along with a large bowl of mountain potatoes, Chinese cabbage, spring onions, mushrooms, tofu, and home-made konnyaku. Diners are then invited to place the items into the soup thus creating the stew.

On a cold winters day there really is nothing more warming, or filling! The soup is delicious and the rich flavours of the boar are complemented perfectly with the blander flavours of the vegetables and tofu. Each table is also provided with a small bottle of Japanese spices that give an almost citrus flavour to the stew, its perfect.

Just as warming as the stew itself is the sake on offer, which it soon becomes clear plays an equally important role to the boar. Served warm, in a small pottery jug, it completes the dining experience. Slightly less enjoyable, however, is Doburoku, a completely different type of sake that is served cold and lumpy. I’m told it is a local delicacy, though I’m not so sure!

For those left with any room in their stomachs after finishing all the meat and vegetables, a bowl of rice and an egg are brought out. The egg is poached in the remaining soup and served with the rice to complete the feast. And that is exactly what this meal is, a feast.

It is well known that Japan does food well, indeed Osaka is a foodies dream with something to suit quite literally every taste. What the city doesn't have though is the tranquillity of the countryside, indeed regardless of how good a restaurants food is, there are times when what one wishes for most is some peace and quiet. So for those who've had enough of the hustle and bustle of the city, yet still want to experience the finest food available it's comforting to know that somewhere like Iwaya exists. It might be a bit expensive, and it may be difficult to get to, but rest assured, it's completely worth it.

From Osaka, use the Fykuchiyama line (JR) to Sasayamaguchi (1110 JPY). Those with reservations can make use of the restaurant bus service that will take you the short distance up the mountain to the restaurant.

Botan Nabe must be booked in advance for a minimum of two people (5250 JPY each)

Open: October – March